Alaska 2: My Way North

After driving from Anchorage to Seward last week, I started heading north from Anchorage this week. Unfortunately, there were problems, so I had to change my plans again.

Day 9: out of Anchorage

After a two-day break in Anchorage, staying at the same hostel as before, we set off again on day 8. The ride to the supermarket was pleasant, through a park. After that, however, we cycled for about 50 km on a bike path alongside a 4-6 lane highway.

I took my lunch break at a beautiful lake, wearing a t-shirt and shorts. There was a sign there saying that children wouldn't swim and would need a swimming aid. Germany has a lot of signs, but here many of them explain the obvious. For example, how a pedestrian traffic light works. They rarely seem to be able to properly signpost bike paths, though.

After the break, the cycle path simply ended at the motorway entrance. With no alternative, I had to continue for a few kilometers on the Glenn Highway. Until the next exit where the new and old highways diverge, I used the hard shoulder. It was pleasantly quiet again on the old highway.

Since it was supposed to rain overnight, I contacted Warmshowers and was offered the opportunity to stay in Chelsea's garden. She left her house unlocked so I could come in whenever I wanted. For dinner, I went to a sports bar for a burger and watched the NBA finals.

Day 10: Palmer and Park Highway

It rained until 10 a.m., so I waited it out in my tent. I was able to pack up dry then. I saw rain throughout the day, but I didn't get wet again.

The entire day was spent cycling along just two highways, each getting progressively smaller, on still fairly good bike paths. I pitched my tent next to the road at the end. Not the best spot, as it turned out. Highway on one side, river on the other, and the remaining two were the airport approach path and the railway line. Plus, lots of mosquitoes.

Day 11: No network

After a bad night, despite wearing earplugs, I received a text message from Vodafone saying I had run out of data. But by the time I called Germany, no one was available. Thankfully, I had downloaded maps and had a tailwind today. So I managed the 50 km to the nearest cell tower in 2 hours.

The bike path ended as soon as I crossed the river from my campsite. From there, the highway was only a single lane. The shoulder was nice and almost newly paved. I also kept catching glimpses of Denali, which always stood out against the distant mountain range.

During my break at the supermarket, I noticed the first dark clouds. I also realized there was only one more gas station in 20 km, and the next shop was 180 km away. So I bought enough food for 2.5 days. After that, the road conditions changed, with ruts/channels running across the road due to frost damage.

I stopped at the gas station for an ice cream break and waited out the shower. Since the next rest stop on my map was out of reach, I stayed at the campervan site/campsite where I settled down for a break.

Since I arrived there at 3:30 PM and had no mobile data, I used the time to check my bike. I discovered that my rim was cracked at two spokes. Without being able to research the severity of the problem, I made myself some mac and cheese and went to sleep.

How am I doing?

Here is my answer to the question yesterday:

Day 12: replanning again

With mobile data again (thanks, Mom), I was able to find out that such damage can quickly become catastrophic. But to think about it, I started cycling. After 10 km and no improvement in road conditions, I turned around to try and get a ride at the gas station.

There I met a pickup truck driver who offered me two pieces of adhesive. He'd used them to glue his gear shifter together 😅. But for 2000 km, it seemed too risky. There was no bus from there, but there was a train in Talkeetna, 6 km away (as the crow flies). That was on the other side of the river, 50 km away. I bought a train ticket there. Out of pity, the ticket seller waived the extra baggage fees for the bike. Then I found a quiet campsite by the water.

Day 13: Train journey

After a peaceful night, I went straight to the train. The carriage was quite empty, so I could always switch to the more interesting side. As a purely tourist train, there were many announcements about highlights along the route. The train also slowed down whenever animals were spotted, and everyone jumped on to get a look.

Up until Cantwell, Denali was often visible without clouds. From the McKinley National Park stop, we headed into the plains north of the Alaska Range. There, only coniferous forests can be found. Let's see how it goes cycling back tomorrow. Part of the route burned last year in a wildfire that burned for over 100 days.

Arriving in Fairbanks after a 400 km and 8.5-hour ride, I cycled straight to my hostel. There I met a motorcyclist from Switzerland who had just returned from Deadhorse. He'd experienced temperatures as low as -6 degrees Celsius and had endured even worse weather for five days up there. He's now completed his Pan-American Highway journey and, after a total of 130,000 km, is heading home. He's looking forward to a couch and a TV 😂.

Day 14: Repair and Till

Today I went out early to the bike shop. The owner of Bankstown in Fairbanks sold me his used rear wheel at a good price since it was the best fit. Across the street, I enjoyed a really good bagel with Nutella for breakfast, along with a hot chocolate, while I waited.

The rest of the day was spent doing laundry, writing postcards, and doing IT updates. I still haven't managed to finish a new card feature, though. Stay tuned 😉.

In the evening, I picked Till up at the airport and helped him assemble his bike.

outlook

Even if things don't always go according to plan, we'll keep going. Starting tomorrow, we'll be following the original route to Denali for the first time. Hopefully, the weather will hold so we can enjoy the panoramic mountain views.

Let's see when the next blog post will come, now that there's a timeframe for Till to catch his flight in Whitehorse in 3 weeks.

If you want to follow Till on Instagram: @till_hill13 .

And now, visible only to my sponsors, a picture of my pizza from Anchorage. The first postcards have already been sent. Thank you all so much! 😊