Cycling trip to the North Cape from Flensburg - Part 2: Northern Norway and the North Cape
In this second part of my journey to the North Cape, I continue north after my lunch in Trondheim. You can find the first part here:
Sebastian
I crossed my first fjord by ferry for just €7. In total, I took 18 ferry crossings by the end of the trip, only having to pay for two (Hirtshals and Trondheim). Unfortunately, it rained in the afternoon, and at only 7°C, I was glad to have a campfire at a shelter in the evening. The next day, I met Edwin, who had started in Gibraltar six months earlier. We cycled together for three days and shared a cabin at a campsite for a rainy rest day.
The coastline all the way to Bodø was breathtaking, and the weather cooperated once again. After every tunnel or bend in the road, there were stunning views, and it felt like each time there were completely different mountains and fjords. The campsites also became increasingly beautiful, so my folding chair was often a welcome addition for enjoying the scenery.
Lofoten
From Bodø, we took the ferry to the Lofoten Islands. They are beautiful, but compared to the previous leg of our journey, they weren't quite to my liking. It was difficult to find a campsite because there were "No Camping" signs everywhere, or campers were already there by 4 pm.
I did three hikes in Lofoten, all very touristy. The worst part, however, was the muscle soreness I got from them. I can cycle a thousand kilometers without any problems, but hiking gives me such severe muscle soreness that I needed a day to rest, which I spent in Svolvær.
After Svolvær came the most modern shelter on the way: a two-story cube with a wraparound window front on the upper floor, offering a superb view of the sea. I was already enjoying the shelter from my lunch break onwards, when it rained in the afternoon.
Andøya and Senja
Andøya felt like it became more beautiful and less touristy again. Many of the people I met north of the Lofoten Islands were also on their way to the North Cape and weren't just there for the Lofoten Islands. On Andøya, I also passed the Isar Aerospace rocket launch site. It was very interesting to see the launch site where the first launch had spectacularly failed in the spring.
There, at a rest stop, stood one of the most modern toilet facilities. It had mirrored windows and a direct view of the launch pad and the coast. Along the coastal scenic route, architects were practically competing to build the most modern toilet facility.
On Senja I camped twice on beautiful sandy beaches, both times with Chloé, with whom I had already experienced a beautiful sunset on a beach the night before Bodø.
North Cape
After a rest day in Tromsø, the journey continued northeast in beautiful weather, though the temperatures had dropped somewhat. With a gloomy forecast, the distances covered in the coming days became increasingly longer in order to reach the North Cape before the rain set in.
Having already slept through several aurora forecasts, I managed to see some just before the end. Unfortunately, they weren't as intense as I'd hoped, but they were just as recognizable to me as in the photos.
Arriving at the North Cape after 39 days was a fantastic feeling, even though the last few kilometers seemed to drag on. After 50 km that day, I reached the North Cape Tunnel. Except for the last kilometer in the tunnel with its 9% gradient, it was interesting to drive 212 meters below sea level, and not as dangerous or dark as I'd read. I didn't encounter any fog either, despite a warning sign. On the North Cape Island, the next 50 km involved an 800-meter climb. Even though you can see the North Cape in the distance quite early on, the journey still feels long until you finally reach it.
After taking the obligatory photo at the globe, I paid the entrance fee (€25) for the North Cape building and then had a hot chocolate in the café with a great view. I also bought a North Cape hat and a few postcards. After a beautiful sunset, I pitched my tent below the parking lot and, after such a tiring day and having reached my destination, quickly fell into bed (still in my sleeping bag 😅).
Return journey
During the night at the North Cape, a bit of rain and wind seeped into my tent, soaking my cycling clothes, and I caught a slight cold on the way back to Honningsvåg. There at the hotel, I met Anke, a cyclist who – as it turned out later – overtook me on my first day in Denmark. Heavily laden, she had cycled to the North Cape in the same amount of time, but via Sweden, with less elevation gain and fewer kilometers.
The next day, we both took the Hurtigruten ferry south. After 17 hours, we reached Tromsø, where I spent another two nights. She continued on to Trondheim and then took the train. Meanwhile, I arranged for a box to transport my bicycle and then flew home via Frankfurt.
Conclusion
I can highly recommend it to everyone. I simply enjoyed the trip so much. I found it significantly better than my tour to Istanbul . Yes, I have to admit, I was very lucky with the weather, but I still want to go back. For me, the language and culture were easier to navigate. The fact that wild camping was allowed also made the whole thing easier mentally. The only downside was the scarcity of restaurants or cafes where you could take a break or eat. Unlike Istanbul, there were almost exclusively supermarket chains.
What's next?
Next time I go to Norway, I'll explore the coast south of Trondheim and the mountains between Oslo and Bergen. But my next trip has a slightly different destination. I've been drawn there ever since I took my first cycling tour. But before the next big trip, there will probably be another short test ride in Germany .
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