Vancouver, Sunshine Coast and Vancouver Island
PI reach the Vancouver metropolitan area and cycle along the Sunshine Coast and on Vancouver Island. We also sleep on beaches and see whales. Like the last leg, I continue cycling with Naomi.
The last few meters to Vancouver
Well-rested, I set off on day 79 for the first time since leaving Central Alaska and after 65 days of hiking alone. Naomi was planning to travel north from Princeton to Vancouver via Whistler. I needed a longer break, so I took the more direct route to Vancouver. After a supermarket stop, I followed Highway 3 west. The day was characterized by long climbs, but since I had some time to spare, I ended it after only 48 km at a river. I had brought something to read and spent the afternoon swimming.
During the night, the wind shifted, and the wildfires 20 km to the south pushed air into the valley. My tent had some ash in the morning, and when I pitched it again in the evening, it smelled like a campfire. Thankfully, it wasn't my sleeping bag or anything inside it. I wore my FFP2/N95 mask most of the time while cycling, but it was too strenuous on the climbs. Shortly before the pass in Manning Park, I was stopped by a camper van that had been lying down. He asked me to call his son when I had cell service again. I did that later. From the pass onward, where a wildfire was burning right next to the road, the smoke disappeared, and I could enjoy the mountains again. At the end of the descent, in Sunshine Valley, a strong headwind began. On RollingAround, I saw that the campground was letting cyclists camp for $10, including access to the pool and hot tub. I enjoyed these for the next four hours. Unbeatable for €6.50.
Even though the campground was right next to the highway, I slept very well. With no smoke and a clear blue sky, I headed down to Hope for a second breakfast at the nearest Tim Hortons. To get there, I had to drive briefly on the six-lane Trans-Canada Highway. It was already quite busy, but thankfully, after only 4 km, the next exit appeared. In Hope, I left the high mountains behind and was only a few meters above sea level. After shopping, I continued west on a quieter road along the river. In Chilliwack, I noticed how densely populated the area had become. Before pitching my tent at the foot of a canal dam 15 km outside of town, I treated myself to an ice cream and a burrito. Unfortunately, I couldn't cool off by the canal because the temperature had reached 31°C again during the day.
The night reminded me of my tour to Lake Garda in February 2023, where I spent a night in a very similar place.
Sebastian
On day 82 of my Pan-American Highway trip, I battled my way through the suburbs and heavy traffic of the Vancouver metropolitan area in the high temperatures. The Sky Train construction also forced me to take several detours that Komoot didn't recognize. It was 90 kilometers through built-up areas to reach downtown Vancouver. There, I had booked a hostel and was happy to finally get a shower. Unfortunately, there was no air conditioning in the room, so the following nights were very hot. On the plus side, the bar downstairs had a daily happy hour from 3 pm to 9 pm with a 12 oz beer for CAD 3.50 including tax. A burger and fries for CAD 13, or 9 euros, was also included. Normally, taxes are not included in the listed price.
Rest days Vancouver
I spent my first day off exploring downtown and taking the metro to Decathlon. I bought a new T-shirt, a new cap, and new headphones. The metro is really easy to use. Just go to the ticket gate with your credit card, ride, and tap it again when you exit. No need to search for the right ticket. I spent the evening back at the hostel bar and met a group of Argentinians. Since it was Friday night, the party went on a bit later with the DJ.
On day two, I set off on my bike in search of a new tire, as my front wheel was now disintegrating, just like the rear wheel had in Jasper. I finally found one in the fourth shop I tried. However, I didn't get it fitted until days later when we left town. I spent the rest of the day writing what would be my penultimate blog post. Like the other evenings, I found my way to the house bar again, but only after I hadn't found a better alternative in Gastown. By then, the waiter knew me by name.
Many thanks to all my supporters ❤️
Jamil, Johannes, Lucas, Peter
and
Carmen, Helga, Michael, Vroni
The pizza that led to the creation of this blog post can be found at the end of the blog entry.
Day 3 in Vancouver brought rain and a cooler night. The night before, one of my roommates had escaped the heat and slept in the common room. I grabbed breakfast from around the corner: a chocolate croissant and a hot chocolate. On my way back, I passed a sports bar advertising upcoming games. The Canadian Football League was starting in 15 minutes. After a quick search, I found out the British Columbia Lions were playing. Where? In Vancouver. So, after a short walk, I was at the stadium just in time for kickoff for 25 CAD. Even with the commercial breaks, the game is a bit faster due to the different rules compared to the NFL. The home team won decisively.
Early on day four, Naomi arrived in Vancouver. Vancouver didn't seem to have that many highlights, so after running some errands for her, we went to see Toy Story 5 at the cinema. Before moving to a friend's place south of downtown that evening, we had one last happy hour beer. Unfortunately, Hans couldn't make it earlier, so I didn't stay with him immediately upon arrival. We were able to stay with him for two nights. Thanks so much if you're reading this!
We spent the fifth day mostly at the beach, in second-hand shops, and eating. After work, Hans showed us more of the city in his car, including a somewhat hazy but beautiful view of the sunset.
Sunshine Coast
Refreshed, we continued our journey northwest by bicycle. After changing a tire, grabbing a Tim Hortons Too Good To Go box, and stopping at a supermarket, we crossed the Lions Gate Bridge to North Vancouver. We cycled along the waterfront to the Horseshoe Bay ferry, which took us to Gibson on the Sunshine Coast. There we met more cyclists, although they were only on weekend trips and mostly just waved rather than stopping for a chat.
After an ice cream in Gibson, we cycled another 15 km to reach a beach recommended by a German cyclist Naomi had met in Whistler, who had been there a few days ahead of us. Even though it was forbidden, we asked a gentleman who was just leaving the beach. He said it shouldn't be a problem. He then spent over 30 minutes telling us about his life, his podcast, and the Sunshine Coast. The ocean was a welcome change and very calming. After dinner, we spent some time enjoying the view, the stars, and the sound of the waves.
I was woken up by someone walking past my tent. On his way back, I was already up, and he asked if we knew the other cyclist from Germany who had slept here a few days earlier 😄. On the horizon, we could already see the first rain clouds rolling in over Vancouver Island. So, without breakfast, we set off for the nearest Tim Hortons. It started raining a few meters before we got there, but we were able to wait it out for the next two hours. There, we met several people who wanted to talk about our trip. One gentleman simply sat with us for over 30 minutes and told us about his travels.
As we set off again, Naomi was having trouble with her gears. On the next steep hill, the gear cable snapped. She had a spare with her, but it had gotten caught in the shifter. We knocked on a house door and asked for tools. The man helped us immediately, and after half an hour we were almost back on the road.
Two other cyclists who were ahead of us told us about a Warmshowers cottage with a hot tub. When we wrote to them, it turned out to be their holiday cottage, and they gave us instructions on how to use it. Unfortunately, the hot tub wasn't working, but we cooked ourselves something nice and simply enjoyed watching TV.
After a really good night's sleep, we washed the bed linens and our clothes before heading to the next ferry. This one was free, unlike the other two on the Sunshine Coast (10 and 6 euros). On the ferry, we met a couple from Seattle who had approached us because of the signs and invited us to stay with them if we ever came by. That was our third invitation in Seattle! It also rained during the crossing, but by the time we arrived, everything was dry again.
It was supposed to rain again in the evening, and the closer we got to Powell River, the fewer options we saw for wild camping. Originally, we wanted to stay at a recreational site 4 km off the highway, by a lake, but when we saw the steep gravel road leading from the turnoff, we looked for something else. Naomi found an abandoned campground on Google satellite images. There was a "No Trespassing" sign at the entrance, but we didn't see any sign for the beach access. 😉
With a few patches of uncultivated land still available, we quickly pitched our tents. When the rain started a few minutes later, we sat in Naomi's tent and played cards until it stopped at sunset. Overlooking the bay, I cooked myself pasta with tomato sauce and, for the first time in ages, grilled sausages. While we were eating, we saw some sea lions swimming and jumping around off our beach. With all the brambles growing wild, we also saw fresh bear scat on the campsite. I probably woke up several times during the night from the noises, but my bear scat canister, which was far enough away, was untouched in the morning.
Vancouver Island: Hospitality
From our campsite, it was only 20 km to the ferry terminal. After the rain last night, it wasn't too warm anymore, but with my light jacket and shorts, it was still comfortable. Since we had another hour to wait, we bought a cinnamon roll for a second breakfast. Unfortunately, the coffee machine was broken, so I couldn't make hot chocolate either.
During the 1.5-hour crossing, we saw about 8 whales near the ferry. Naomi even managed to capture them on video.
Naomi cycled straight into town after arriving to have her gear cable adjusted. I enjoyed the beach by the jetty with my lunch. We had some time to kill in town since we didn't want to be at our Warmshowers host's place too early. He was the uncle of our Warmshowers host from Nelson. To pass the time, we bought some Ben & Jerry's ice cream and ate it on the park grass. We received a warm welcome from Steve and Barb. We had our own rooms, a wonderful dinner where I also tried a sweet corn on the cob, and listened to Steve recount his adventures.
My 92nd day of the trip was a rainy Sunday. We slept in, had breakfast together, and then mended our clothes. It didn't work out the first time, so it was already midday when we decided to stay another night after being offered a place to stay. Naomi and I spent the afternoon at the library and a café making videos and writing the blog. For dinner, we made pizza.
Rain was forecast for next Wednesday, so we wanted to use Monday and Tuesday to get to Sidney (north of Victoria, not Australia 😉) as quickly as possible to visit Naomi's friend. We set off early but weren't yet sure where we would spend the night. Wild camping is hardly possible because it's so built up, and we were also meeting up with Harry, who had finished picking fruit, and his girlfriend, who were traveling in their car and rooftop tent. Campsites here cost around 35-40 euros.
After 50 km, when I asked Naomi for a quick snack break, we stopped at a campground with a picnic table by the roadside. I ate my Nutella sandwich, and Naomi was on her phone for a while when an older couple approached her about her sign and our trip. She told the standard story and was then invited to stay with them without even asking. Their two granddaughters would be there too. When she replied that she was traveling with me and was also looking for somewhere for Harry and Lucy to sleep for the night, they invited the four of us without having met any of us. Scott had cycled from home to the east coast of Canada a few years ago and wanted to return the hospitality he had experienced. Naomi and I had our own bedrooms again, and Harry and Lucy slept in the rooftop tent on the driveway.
I was woken up by the children in the morning, and the parents brought their youngest over for the day. That was a bit too much for me, and I was already in the saddle by 8 a.m. Naomi wanted to reach Sydney by evening, which was 100 km, but I wanted to make a detour to see some old railway bridges. She challenged me to ride the 125 km in one day as well, which gave me some motivation. Besides, on this day, my 1994th, I reached my 6000 km mark.
Leaving Nanaimo, I followed a trail right next to Highway 1, which runs from the mainland towards Victoria via the ferry here in the city. Eventually, this trail ended, and I continued along the busy four-lane highway. In some places, there were side roads until I could turn onto the rail trail. I had chosen a section with two beautiful old trestle bridges. Unfortunately, I discovered that the first bridge had been replaced by a steel structure. The second was the larger, more impressive, and intact wooden bridge. There were about 30 tourists there.
Before heading towards the ferry and Sydney, I stopped for a snack at the trailhead parking lot by the bridge. There I met two German couples who asked me about my sign. One of them offered me a beer, which I couldn't refuse given the beautiful weather. I definitely felt it by the time I got to the ferry. I was also approached by a local woman, and I told her my story as well. When I mentioned the 20 CAD foreigner's fee in British Columbia, which has been charged at public campgrounds since 2026, she took pity on me and gave it to me in cash.
I slightly missed the ferry and ended up having dinner in the waiting shelter. When I arrived exhausted after 125 km, I also received 10 CAD via my website from Defin: "Saw you on the ferry. Have a great time on Vancouver Island." Since no one on the ferry approached me, it felt strange to receive such an anonymous donation. Still, thank you very much, Defin. Lots of people read and scan the sign, but only a few actually speak to me while I'm standing right next to it. Strange world.
Rest days in Sydney
Since Naomi's visa couldn't be renewed for another week after our arrival in Sydney, we made the most of our time. Charlotte, Naomi's friend, was mostly at work or with her boyfriend, so we had her apartment to ourselves.
Naomi accompanied her to a conference in Vancouver for two nights, so I even had her all to myself for a short while. I used the time to work on and start writing the latest blog post. I used the free computer in the library several times for this. We also went out one evening with Charlotte's friends.
Conclusion
The many days off were very good for me, even if the second break in Sydney was almost too much. I also never expected such hospitality on Vancouver Island. It was wonderful to feel so welcome as the weather noticeably shifted towards autumn. In the next blog post, however, I'll be heading south again after a long time, chasing after summer. And the USA, specifically Washington and Oregon, is just around the corner.
I really enjoyed the Sunshine Coast because it follows the ocean and beaches the whole way. Unfortunately, it was a bit too cold to cool off in after a strenuous day, as it was rather chilly (14°C). I was also recommended to visit Tofino, but since it's a dead end with a large mountain in between, there are no wild camping options, and it's quite expensive, we decided against cycling there. We were told that Tofino is so popular because it's the only large sandy beach on the west coast of Canada. Since we'll be seeing plenty more of those on the US coast, we didn't need to put ourselves through that.
And now, visible only to my sponsors, a picture of my pizza from Sidney, Vancouver Island. Thank you all so much 😊